Leaving our stopover bungalow at Hamilton Park Country lodge where we only stayed for one night, we drove to the safari camp in GwalaGwala, a private game reserve some 75 kms. further north.

I would have preferred to stay in the Kruger National Park, the mother of all national parks in South Africa which is a huge sprawl that’s as big as Wales (20,000 sq. kms.). There were camps inside with basic accommodation that were pretty inexpensive. But due to the winter school holidays, they were all fully booked. Adjacent to the Kruger are several park concessions that are privately-run on a long-term lease. They are stocked with game within the confines of their respective fenced-off areas and have their own camps that range from simply luxurious to over-the-top opulence. Just to name a few, there is Londolozi, Sabie Sand, MalaMala and Singita. These are where the likes of Oprah and Brad and Angelina stay whenever they feel the urge to connect with the jungle. Here, you pay top dollar. A typical all-inclusive stay in Londolozi, for example, would easily cost a cool $850/-+ per night per person. So what were the chances of finding other places that wouldn’t cost an arm and a leg?


Entrance to the game reserve where we stayed in this tented accommodation

That’s how I stumbled upon GwalaGwala while browsing thru the Net for options. Named after the African Lourie (a native colorful bird), it had 6 tented guest accommodations for two. Located in a smaller property (12,000 hectares), they stocked animals that weren’t of the fiercest variety – giraffes, zebras, warthogs, antelopes, mongooses, monkeys, caracals, hyenas and jackals. For Big Five (buffalo, rhino elephant, leopard and lion) viewing, they offered game drives in nearby Thornybush game reserve. Inclusive of breakfast, brunch, dinner and two game drives per day, their winter special offer of 6,500/- South African Rands ($1,000/-) for two persons for three days was reasonable enough.

So that’s where we found ourselves at 2:00 in the afternoon. As we entered the gate that had a steel grated bridge so animals couldn’t walk through, several giraffes munching off the top of the low bushwillows greeted us. We followed the dirt track that led us down to the Reception area where Ann (the owner with her husband Dorian) with her two large dogs and Barthus, the overall camp manager, warmly greeted us.


The lawn around the pool and staircase to the tent

We were escorted to our tent (named Klaserie Rock) which was on a small promontory with an open verandah that overlooked a gurgling stream. Measuring 10x5 meters, it was built on a meter-high raised wooden platform, and was divided by canvass and netting flaps into 2 areas: two-thirds was the bedroom and one-third was the toilet and dressing room. Metal tubing framed the tent made of thick canvass with windows that had covers which could be rolled up to open. The floor was wooden planking and the toilet had bamboo walls with the shower stall finished in slate stone tile. In the middle of the room was a large queen-sized bed with fluffy pillows and a thick electric blanket to keep you warm and comfy during the cold nights. Two side tables with lamps and a credenza with drawers and a small fridge underneath completed the somewhat spartan furnishings. For lighting, there were gas lamp-like fixtures hanging from the ceiling with electrical bulbs in them.

Trying out the bed and the tent's verandah outside

So how is it, I asked the wife. Her eyes widened as she nodded her approval. But I knew she was quite concerned about how safe we were because we only had a canvass flap for a door although the heavy-duty zippers had locks in them. We were told to always zip and lock up so that the vervet monkeys hanging around the place would not enter and wreck havoc on our things. Don’t worry, I said, we’ll be okay - as a sudden gust of wind loudly shook the branches and leaves of the trees around us which startled her and made me laugh.  Let’s open the champagne, I suggested. The chilled complimentary bottle was sitting on the table so I picked up two glasses, poured the sparkling liquid, and we toasted our safe arrival.


After-dinner stories around the open fire in the "boma" and relaxing in the adjoining lounge

The camp’s layout was simple. In the middle was a lawn that had a small swimming pool and hammock under the trees. This was where the lounge was located. We had light snacks here before the game drives or simply relaxed on the sofas browsing through the numerous books and magazines about wildlife lying on the coffee tables. Adjacent to it was the kitchen which was right next to the boma, an enclosed circular space with an open fireplace in the middle. Dinner was served here on long tables and we gathered around the fire, drinks in hand, swapping stories or discussing


We spent may hours just sitting on this rock by the gurgling stream named Klasserie

anything under the  twinkling, southern constellation-filled sky. The owners usually joined us and we had good, lively, flowing conversation. I learned that Dorian was a retired Jo’burg banker while Ann was an accountant and they put up this game lodge upon retiring. Both of them putter around, enjoying the slow but healthy pace of life that it affords. (Hmmm…..it gave me an idea to do something like this in Palawan when I’m through with working my ass off.) A big jackalberry tree close by had a treehouse where we ate brunch or had our favorite drinks in the bar.

Breakfast at the treehouse up on the old jackalberry

It was a satisfying first day and the exploration of our surroundings was only cut short when Barthus told us to prepare for the afternoon game drive. That was when the real fun would begin.